Brew-Control started with a belief that most homebrewers don’t want a total solution for their electric home brewing systems. But instead, most homebrewers want to spend what their budget can afford now and then grow later. So, instead of going ‘all out’ on a $2,000+ system, many decide to use an electric controller for better mash control or they decide to replace their expensive propane fired brew pot with an electric brew pot. We can help you succeed by providing maximum value for your money!

Why use one of our controllers?

To brew better beer

Most of us started brewing with extracts and I’ve tasted some great extract beers. But it doesn’t take long to figure out that we can move on to mashed grains to save money and to gain more control of our brew recipes. That first step away from extract brewing is almost always single step infusion mashing in a GOTT Cooler type insulated mash tun. But you can only go so far with an insulated mash tun. Some recipes call for a multi-step mash, with each temperature step being critical for developing the flavor profile and mouth feel of your beer. A PID base mash or brewery controller like ours is capable of managing even the most complex multi-step mash profile.

For better temperature control

Temperature control is always a shot in the dark while mashing in a GOTT Cooler type insulated mash tun. I know what I used to do – I would set my initial strike water to 170F, incorporate my grain and then measure my temperature. And it would always be low – somewhere in the 132F or so range. So, I’d stir in hot water until I reached 145F, put the lid on the mash tun, cover with a few blankets, wait for an hour and hope for the best. I made some pretty good beers this way but nothing spectacular.


Back when we mashed in our unheated GOTT Cooler we would start at 145F and end up somewhere south of 120F an hour later. All this is solved with a good mash controller like our RIMS Tube / Mash Tun controllers. Plus, if you use a RIMS Tube you can keep your cooler because you can circulate wort from your existing cooler through the RIMS tube and back into your cooler.


The real advantage of a PID based controller like ours is you can start at 145F, or whatever your recipe recommends and stay at that temperature through your entire mash cycle. Then you can vary over time and get predictable results batch after batch. The bottom line is the amount of temperature control is amazing with a good controller. Multi step infusion mashing is easy too – you just watch your clock and change the mash temperature on the controller. With a little experience and knowledge of how fast temperature changes move through your mash tun, you can tackle the most complex multi-step mash profiles with one of our systems.

To brew inside

You know the drill, you want to brew this weekend but it’s raining. Or it’s 20F outside, or here in the South it’s 98 degrees and feels like 120F because of the humidity!!!! It’s easy to mash inside but you can’t put your burner in the house. You can brew in the garage with the garage door up when it’s raining but because you have to leave the door up you don’t get much help from temperature extremes.


Home Brewery Equipment like our Boil Controllers and our more capable BIAB Controllers, HERMS Controllers and Full Brewery Controllers solve all of these problems. Because they are electric you don’t have to brew outside and when the temperature is extreme you can just close your garage door. Some customers have even set up basement breweries with our equipment. Just make sure you plan for plenty of ventilation for your basement setup because a full boil will pump a lot of water into the air.

To stop using expensive propane

Propane is the obvious solution to boil your wort because most of us already have a propane grill or turkey fryer. But we don’t cook burgers for a solid hour and I believe that if home brewers understood their propane cost they would be searching for a better solution after their first or second tank refill. For example, I did a quick experiment one day – I weighed my propane tank before and after a full brew day and figured I had somewhere around $5.00 of propane in that one 5 gallon batch of beer! This was on a calm, moderate day with very little wind blowing. And although I did not take the time to measure I know my propane usage has to go way up when the wind is blowing.


One issue with propane is only about 25% of the heat generated by propane heats your wort. The rest goes up the sides of your pot. This is because the heat source is on the outside of your pot, and because your propane flame needs airflow, that same airflow carries much of your heat away from your boil pot. But an electric boil pot uses a submerged heating element – the heater is inside your pot. This means that 100% of the heat generated by the heating element heats your wort, and all you have left are evaporation and radiation losses with electric.


It’s no coincidence that our Boil Controllers and our more capable BIAB Controllers, HERMS Controllers and Full Brewery Controllers are all designed to run on 30 Amps, the same current your electric dryer is designed to run on. Many of our customers plug their setups into their dryer outlets then unplug and plug their dryers back in after brew day.