Electric Home Brewery Controllers

Full Elewctric Home Brewery Controllers

 

Our Electric Home Brewery controllers are designed to manage your entire brewing process without breaking the bank. With our Electric Home Brewery controller you heat your initial strike water, control your mash temperature while heating your sparge water, then sparge the wort from your mash tun your boil pot –  all with one controller. And the best part of our Electric Home Brewery controller is the ability to expand without reinvesting in your original hardware! We accomplish this with expansion modules that can be daisy chained to your original control module.

 

With expansion in mind – Want to expand from 6 to 12 gallon boil? No problem, just add an additional element to your boil pot, expand your electrical panel to 50 Amps, add an additional outlet for the expansion module and then plug in one of our expansion modules with the supplied cable. Set the rotary switch on your expansion module to boil and it’s element will cycle on and off in time with the boil element in your brew pot.

 

Boil Pot still isn’t heating fast enough or won’t reach a full rolling boil? Again, no problem, just add a third element to your Boil Pot, add an additional outlet for the additional expansion module and then daisy chain another one of our expansion modules into the first one with the supplied cable. Set the rotary switch on this expansion module to Boil and it’s element will cycle on and off in time with the boil element in your Boil tank. Just don’t forget that you will need to expand your brew center electrical panel to cover the total number of elements that will be on at the same time!

 

Need a fourth or fifth element in your boil pot or a second element in your HLT? You can daisy chain up to 4 expansion modules (and possibly more, we’ve only tested 4 daisy chained). Just remember to expand your electrical panel to cover all the elements you expect to be on AT THE SAME TIME.

 

Smart Power Management

With our base system, we can power your 5500 Watt mash tun or RIMS Tube element and 5500 Watt HLT tank element on one 30 Amp circuit at the same time because of smart power management. With smart power management, our controller gives power to your mash first and then your HLT second. And what this means is:

  • When your mash tun or RIMS and HLT are on at the same time, our controller sends power to your mash first. If it needs 100% power, it gets 100% power.
  • Then when your mash needs less power, we divert power over to your HLT. So now, if your mash only needs 10% power we can divert 90% power over to your HLT, but we still only have one heating element on at a time.
  • Then when your mash needs a lot of power again, like during a step mash temperature change, we divert all of the power back over to your mash.
  • Then when you reach your next step temperature we divert extra power back over to your HLT.

The end result is your sparge water is at the correct temperature and ready when your mash is done! There’s no separate heater to fire-up, and no reason to expand your power source beyond 30 Amps unless you expand your brewery size and decide to add one or more of our expansion modules.

 

 

Our Home Brewery controllers feature:

A compact all aluminum housing with 4 mounting holes and two large heat sinks to dissipate excess heat. We never, ever use unsafe plastic housings for our brewery controller products.
A twist right to turn on / press to turn off main power button that also serves as an emergency off switch.
Boil is managed with our in-house designed PWM controller – the graduated knob on the top panel.
HLT and Mash Temperatures are managed by off-the-shelf PID controllers. We could design our own controllers but sometimes it’s just smarter to let the experts manufacture and deliver what they do best!
Ships complete with two in-house designed PT-100 temperature sensors. Our temperature sensors are built into their own water proof thermowells with 1/2″ MPT type threads and nylon lock nuts. We include a 6 foot flexible sensor cable with each that can be easily disconnected and reconnected at either end.
Simple to use BOIL / MASH and HLT ON/OFF switches changes modes during your brew cycle.
Features a 10 Gauge SJOOW 12 foot power cord with a 4 prong dryer style power plug.
Also features three 30 Amp L6-30r twist lock receptacles designed for a L6-30p twist lock plugs used by most 240V home brew mash tuns and RIMS tubes. One for your HLT tank, one for your mash tun or RIMS tube and one for your boil pot.
Two 120V pump control circuits with separate on/off switches and pump outlets. The pumps are switched separately. You can use other pumps but we recommend MARCH pumps for our controllers.
Each PID controller has a programmable alarm that’s turned off with a master on/off switch. The alarm is about as loud as a smoke alarm alerter and it makes about the same sound.
All of our controllers are tested with GFCI and are GFCI compatible.
The safety ground wire that runs from the outlet all the way to the plug is also bonded to the aluminum housing for safety.
All of our controllers are 100% manufactured in the USA with a mix of US, Chinese and Canadian components.

Specifications and Installation Recommendations:

Controller
Just like our other 220/240V controllers, our Electric Home Brewery controllers are built with 4 prong dryer type plugs. Also like all of our other controllers, these are 100% tested behind GFCI breakers and to be 100% GFCI compliant our 220/240V controllers must be 4  wire. We highly recommend running a dedicated GFCI protected 30 Amp 4 wire circuit for your brew area. NEC Code in most areas will require you to run 4 wires to a sub panel and one of the best choices on the market is a SPA panel. This controller will easily handle up to 7000 watt heaters after factoring in power for a circulation pump, but 4500 to 5500 watt water heater elements are more common with homebrewers.

Because only one element is switched on at one time, this controller will draw no more current than the highest rated element in the system, and a 5500 watt water heater element will draw 23 Amps. This is true even if your mash and HLT are switched on at the same time.

Controller and One Expansion Module
Assuming 5500 Watt elements are used in both controllers, the controller and expansion module together will draw up to 11,000 watts or 46 Amps. You will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 50 Amps.
Controller and Two Expansion Modules Assuming a 5500 Watt element is used in all controllers, one expansion module is set to mash and the other is set to boil then the entire system will draw up to 11,000 watts or 46 Amps. You will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 50 Amps.

If both expansion modules are set to the same function (like boil) then you will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 75 Amps. This is because three 5500 Watt elements will be on at the same time and the set of three will draw 16,500 watts or 69 Amps.

Controller and Three Expansion Modules
Assuming 5500 Watt elements are used by all controllers, one expansion module is set to mash and the other two are set to boil then the entire system will draw up to 16,500watts or 69 Amps. You will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 75 Amps.

If all three expansion modules are set to the same function (like boil) then you will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 100 Amps. This is because four 5500 Watt elements will be on at the same time and the set of four will draw 22,000 watts or 92 Amps.

Controller and Four Expansion Modules
Assuming 5500 Watt elements are used by all controllers, two expansion modules are set to mash and the other two are set to boil then the entire system will draw up to 16,500 watts or 69 Amps. You will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 75 Amps.

If three expansion modules are set to the same function (like boil) then you will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 100 Amps. This is because four 5500 Watt elements will be on at the same time and the set of four will draw 22,000 watts or 92 Amps.

If all four expansion modules are set to the same function (like boil) then you will need to upgrade your sub-panel to 125 Amps. This is because five 5500 Watt elements will be on at the same time and the set of five will draw 27,500 watts or 115 Amps.